And a visit with a radical
American ghost
By Amy C Collins

I am alone with the open road, my
focus on the curves. Orange-hued
woods fall away to open green pastures and glide back into sight, hugging the
two-lane roadway. A peaceful
mind prevails. Just outside the
Florence city limits in North West Alabama, the historic Natchez Trace Parkway
winds it’s way north toward Nashville, Tennessee and South across the state of
Mississippi, ending in Natchez. A
peaceful, scenic drive provides an opportunity to unwind and escape. The drive sails past nature trails,
fishing banks and picnic stops, overlooks and historical markers. The rich
history of the southeastern United States, its American Indian beginnings, is
preserved at various rests along the Trace through landmark signs.
A
few miles west of The Shoals, a collective name encompassing four abutting
cities: Florence, Sheffield, Muscle Shoals, and Tuscumbia, lies an entrance to
the Trace in the middle of the short run through Alabama. The Trace covers 444 miles from end to
end, but this corner of Alabama will take only an hour to travel from the
Tennessee line to the Mississippi border. A perfect afternoon getaway, maybe I eat a brief lunch
along the way, there’s still time to catch an afternoon latte back in town. The
smooth, easy drive prohibits commercial traffic and strictly enforces speed
limits. I am forced to take time.
The
Natchez Trace, before paved in black asphalt, was probably established by
migrating bison and giant sleuths, thousands of years ago. In the last 2,000 years the Trace was
trafficked by American Indian tribes trading among themselves. The Choctaw, Chickasaw,
Creek, and Cherokee hunted bison and wild pig and fished the Tennessee River and
its inlets for bass, and mussels.
At the turn of the 19th Century the US Government was awarded
permission by the various Indian tribes to use the Trace as a military
mobilization and mail route.
Today, the landscape along the
Trace remains protected from civilization, a presumed likeness of how the road
may have looked to its early travelers. An occasional deer, opossum or fox attempts to cross
the road.
Sixteen
miles from downtown Florence, south on the Trace, the journey crosses the
Natchez Trace Bridge and the Tennessee River, from Lauderdale County into
Colbert County and drops down by a landmark, Colbert Ferry. Directly below the bridge, the landing
Colbert named “Georgetown”, opens to a grassy area with a few picnic tables and
a soft breeze off the Tennessee River.
There are few people on a weekday afternoon and the burnt colors
speckling the trees, the damp smell of winter coming, the crispness of the air
pushes me to button up my jacket and cup my hands for warmth.
The spot is named for Chief George
Colbert, a Chickasaw half-breed with a Scottish father. George had three Chickasaw wives and
strict ethos: no alcohol, no
education, and no white religion. Chief George and his brother Levi, also a
chief, were wealthy herdsman. They
raised cattle and hogs and owned slaves.
They were dubious men with shady business practices.
In
1801 General Benjamin Wilkinson signed the Wilkinson Treaty with the Chickasaw
tribe, represented by Chief George Colbert. George dictated a provision that required the US Government
to move the Trace, from where it currently ran inland through the Chickasaw
territory, further upstream, closer to what is today Muscle Shoals, and where
the Tennessee River is too wide, too deep to easily cross. He established a ferry, and his brother
opened a “stand”. It was a tavern
with rooms for rent, food, and whiskey - sold only to the white man. Under the terms of the treaty, George
and Levi were the only men permitted to own and operate businesses in the vast
Chickasaw territory.
A
path off the side road from this landing is marked with an invitation to stroll
into the woods to the original spot of the Levi’s stand, along the Old Trace to
the bluff overlook. The sign tells
a brief story of shrewd business ethics: Colbert welcomed Andrew Jackson’s army
with shelter, copious bottles of whiskey, and passage across the river, only to
send a $75,000 invoice to the War Department once they had left. Colbert charged $.50 per person per one-way
trip. The whiskey his brother sold
fetched a price three times the norm.
Almost 200 years after the Colbert
brothers fattened their wallets, I wonder if this place still holds a creative
energy. I wonder if I might absorb
some of George Colbert’s entrepreneurial spirit by sitting on this riverbank. I imagine Jackson’s men making jokes,
swapping stories, hung-over from a few nights of drinking and playing
cards. They fall in line to board
Colbert’s ferry, marching behind General Jackson.
Maybe I could open a bakery
downtown with my sister? I should
sign up for a baking class. Is
there money in bio-diesel? Perhaps
I could acquire a fleet of flat riverboats, like the ones operated by wheat and
skin tradesmen from Ohio in the early 1800s, floating south to the Gulf to sell
their goods. I could offer tourist
rides leaving from this very spot.
Of course, I wouldn’t want to pick up Colbert’s crooked business
practices.
A
quick stop in the public restroom, a visit to the visitors center for a
souvenir brochure, and I’m on my way.
Several small beaver damns poke through the surface of the water in the
inlet, where the boat ramp sits near the exit. The water is still and reflects impressionistic images of
underbrush lining the bank.